Oh! It’s a glove!
Are you ready to watch your pair of Morand gloves being created? Take a deep breath, now exhale slowly and start reading! There are 13 (long) stages in the traditional manufacturing process to bring your leather gloves to life and cast a lucky spell over your style.
Cutting the glove
Cutting the glove includes all the stages of working on the leather and the hides. These operations are essential and are carried out meticulously: this is where everything begins.
Choosing the hidesRead
Choosing the hides is a fundamental step.
When the hides arrive at the factory, they are classified by type, size and colour. This classification helps the glovemaker decide the type of glove for which the hide will be used: men’s or women’s gloves.
Various types of hide are used by Morand: kid, lamb, peccary and rabbit.
Once the hide is chosen, it is placed in a damp cloth. This stage gives the leather suppleness and stretch (allowing it to fit perfectly to your hand). Then the hide is rolled up long enough for it to absorb all the moisture.
Cutting out and positioningRead
Once the leather is moist, the hide is shaped and stretched to the maximum by the glovemaker. This allows him to determine where the various pieces making up the leather glove will be positioned. The glovemaker works on the hide according to the model of glove he is going to produce. After this stage, the size of the glove is determined and it is finally cut out.
During this phase, the cutter pulls the hide sharply over a corner of the table, pulling both ends to stretch it. The glove stretched in this way can then become wider when it is worn. After each wearing, it will only need to be pulled lengthways in order to regain its original shape, and its size will never change throughout its lifetime.
Slitting - Cutting outRead
The future gloves, which have been pulled and cut into rectangles, are ready for the next stage: slitting. This is when an essential glove-making tool, the ‘iron hand’, comes into use.
The ‘iron hand’Read
The ‘iron hand’ is a mould in the shape of a hand. The glovemaker places the piece of leather he has been working on over this device. After passing through a hydraulic press, the piece of hide is cut out and takes on the true shape of the glove.
It is at this stage in the cutting process that the fingers are separated and a space is made for the thumb.
Refining - Finishing the cutting processRead
To create a clean outline after using the iron hand, the piece of leather, now cut out in the shape of a hand, is trimmed once more with a pair of scissors to even up the edges.
Sewing the glove
Following the cutting stages of the glove, the glovemaker now has a piece of leather cut to shape. This piece is now going to be decorated and assembled.
For fashion gloves or gloves with some visual features, all sorts of decoration can be added at this stage, such as ribs, laces, patterns or buttons.
Assembling the glove with lapped seamsRead
Once the various decorative elements have been added, the glove is assembled.
Lapped seams refers to a sewing technique on the outer side of the garment, which avoids any possible discomfort from stitches being felt by the hand. This particular hand-stitched technique can be recognised by the presence of ‘quirks’: little triangles at the base of each finger. This is the secret of enhanced strength and greater comfort.
Adding the lining and finishingRead
The lining stage consists of turning the glove inside out and then sewing the lining to the ends of the fingers. When the lining has been sewn in, the glove is turned back the right way to finish this process.
The finishing stage may be done by hand or machine. A small finishing strip is sewn on to the glove or it can be hand stitched to ensure the lining stays in place.
The glove is almost ready! Before your gloves can be worn, meticulous inspection of the work is carried out.
Inspecting the sewing - ‘Baguettage’Read
‘Baguettage’ is the name given to the inspection stage of the sewing. With the help of spindle spacers (‘baguettes’) inserted into each finger, the sewn parts are separated to ensure they are not too tight. This inspection ensures optimal comfort.
Finishing the gloveRead
After all these stages, the glove must regain its shape.
It is therefore carefully placed on heated steel hands. These ‘warm hands’ enable the gloves to be formed into their final shape before they are sold, and irons them at the same time.
Final inspection and matching upRead
Once they have been shaped by the warm hands, the gloves are examined carefully by an expert. Only if no faults whatsoever are detected may the much-awaited gloves may begin their life as an essential accessory for your hands.